I know, it's been a while. But this is it, I'M FINALLY HERE. After starting all those study abroad forms and papers nearly a year ago, it has all culminated to this: JAPAN, BABY!
I know I've left you all hanging wondering where the hell I was, and I apologize. It's been over a month since I arrived, and it was a hassle, but I've settled in long ago. For those wondering, yes, it was a nightmare getting here. Being my first time flying overseas, I expected a long, ass-numbing flight. What I wasn't expecting was my plane having engine trouble, having to disembark, having to catch another flight that was going to send me to Salt Lake City, Los Angeles (in a span of two days, with no hotel coverage), having my baggage lost, and having to deal with airline personnel that barely spoke English. I escaped having to spend a night in Salt Lake City and half a day in Los Angeles simply by re-booking altogether for another flight leaving one day later, but losing my luggage was the worst I had to deal with.
Well, all is well and I'm finally falling into the groove of things here in Tokyo. Right now, though, my biggest dilhemma is having to choose which one of the many things I've experienced in the one month that I have already been here will be the first thing I'll write about.
Hmmmm............
Well, since it was this time two years ago that I was first introduced to the wonderful world of kendo, where I met some of my closest friends, I will dedicate this entry to my current observations of budo here in Japan.
UNFORTUNATELY and SURPRISINGLY, I haven't seen a whole lot of budo here in what a friend of mine calls "Kendo Land". That's right. Occationally, I see a young man carry what is unmistakingly a shinai in its case walking through the train station, but other than that, those dojos must be carefully tucked away in the innermost depths of a highschool or college gymnasium. I had a chance to ask a few people who were members of my own university's kendo club, and they actually don't recommend it for the experienced and seasoned. They call it a "circle", where attendance and fees are not mandatory and practice is extremely lax. Apparently, there is no sensei, and the club is run by a student captain, who basically just covers the "pre-men" basics. One student actually recommended that I seek an outside, more private group after I told him that I've been involved with kendo for a couple of years.
So, the search begins.
Well, I think I should get a hold of my hakama, gi, and tenuguis before seeking another group. Plus, my schedule needs to be free, or they'll probably kick me out before I even enter.
What I had the fortune to see, though, was kyudo. A few weeks ago, my host mother took me to an Autumn Festival run by the Odagawara Family, who apparently established their own school of archery back in 1102. Impressive, I know! Even more impressive was that the demonstration was being held at the family's Shinto shrine! Never did I think I'd have the privilege to see something like this in the first month I was here! I fail to really explain how excited I was. My excitement was not to last, however...
Upon arrival I was somewhat appalled to see the conditions of the exterior of the shrine. Just outside this sacred place...was at least a half mile row of takoyaki (fried octopus), yakitori (chicken shishkabab), and yakisoba (pan-fried noodles) stands with really tacky colors and cartoon characters on them. Think hotdog, hamburger, and curly fries stands right outside a dojo. When the actual archers came marching in, I noted right away what an eyesore these second-rate food stands were in contrast with the magnificent costumes the Kyuudou-ka were wearing.
It took nearly another hour before the actual demonstration began. The archers marched into the shrine, removed all their gear, sat, and prayed, all in and extremely ceremonious fashion. In the time it took for all prayers to be completed, gear up, and march to the actual range, many spectators had all gone back to get seconds at the food stands, or resumed browsing various souvenir shops. When the archers had taken their position at the range, in an instant, people flocked back, cameras at the ready. It was nothing like a Kendo or a Sumo match, where there are a few seconds of intense action. From knocking the arrow, to the draw, to the release, and the expression, or energy, after the shot; everything was drawn out and ritualized, like Iaido.
Anyone who has been to the first day of Iaido and kendo practice at St. Lawrence knows how fast the crowd dies down after discovering that they can't really learn to use a sword in real life and thus immediately becomes disinterested. It wasn't long before just about everybody left satisfied with their pictures, souvenirs, and full stomachs. There was even a limit to how much budo my host mother could take. We left half an hour later, before the last group of archers could have their turn.
Amazing how even in its own country, budo has become a tourist event. As for me, this was great material I could use in my reasearch project for my Contemporary Japan class. Since the end of World War II, Japan has been encouraged to commercialize everything to the tourist trade (cheap export items, etc.), which iniatially helped its economy, but now, seems to have gone too far in my opinion.
Japan definately is not the only country/society guilty of this. Hell, there are people in my hometown who'd let tourists take pictures of them in their cowboy/indian hybrid get up for a bit of change that would go toward booze.
At the end of the day, I'd gained this experience, which in itself will be unforgettable, and also, a perpetual hatred of yakisoba. Did I mention people were not only smoking in the food stands, but also in the shrine? My host mother insisted I eat something. That something turned out to be a greasy tray of yakisoba that, combined with the reek of cigarettes, made me sick to my stomach.
Take it from me, yakisoba is a Japanese junk food you should just stay clear of. And don't smoke. For a country that is known for it's impressively long life expectancy, tobacco is surely making a dent in these numbers. Not to mention the alcohol consumption....
But that's another story.



